Wednesday, December 12, 2007

Cigar Box Guitar questions

I had a couple of questions asked about how to make a pick-up and anchoring strings. I thought it a good idea to post my answer on here too.

Q. - "I'm totally fascinated by the cigar box guitar and am trying to put one together right now. I think the first problem was how to get the strings/tail done, and I'm opting to just make very small holes and let the ball at the end hold things. The other problem is amplifying, a piezo has me stumped. I know Radio Shack has them and I've been told they simply wire over to an input jack ... but I was wondering if you have any suggestions as to how I can easily get the thing wired for amplification."

A. - The neck passes straight through the box and out the back about 5cm to provide anchorage for the ball end of the strings. I drill three holes about 1cm apart. I find that when strung, the strings start to cut into the wood so I make a small metal plate out of brass or alloy which I screw onto the tail just in front of the holes so that it takes the pressure of the strings off the wood and stops it cutting through. It helps keep the thing in tune as it stops you losing tension from them cutting into the wood.

Pickup - easy. It's a ceramic piezo transducer disc. Some people buy a piezo buzzer which has one in and they rip it apart. Hard work when you can just buy the disc anyway. It looks like a thin a brass disc with a white coating in the middle (like a fried egg). There are two wires soldered to it, one to the brass outer and one to the coating. Carfeully unsolder them and discard the wires. You need some screened twin cable and a 1/4 inch jack socket. On one end of the cable solder one wire to the inner of the jack and the other wire and the screen wire together to the outer. At the pickup end trim the outer covering back about 2 cm and cut off the screen. Very very carefully solder one wire to the brass and one to the coating where the old wires were. Be carfeul because the coating is fragile. If it breaks off when soldering just try soldering another small blob on another area, it usually works OK. Before fixing to the guitar, plug it into an amp and just tap the disc, if it clicks it's OK, if it's dead then you got it wrong. When OK I fix the socket into the body then glue the disc (brass side) with Araldite to the inside of the box just under where the bridge/saddle is going to be. I also add a blob of hot glue to stick the cable to the lid just to stop it flapping about and ripping your wires off. I don't bother with vol. or tone controls, just use those on the amp. Job done.

Thursday, November 22, 2007

Squidoo

Just found this cool site where you can create a mini blog in a few minutes. They call each blog a "lens". I put a CBG lens on there. You can see it from this link.

http://www.squidoo.com/smojocigarboxguitars/

Friday, November 02, 2007

Cigar box guitar playing on YouTube



Been experimenting with some short videos on YouTube to demonstrate my CBGs. Here's a bit of slow improvisation inspired by the Delta. Check out my others at

http://www.youtube.com/smojomusic

Monday, October 15, 2007

metal slides for cigar box guitars

The guitars I make are purely for slide playing. The slide I use and like best is a heavy brass tube. I have tried pyrex which is a very thin glass. The glass is quite soft and scratches after a while. They break when you drop them too, hence I don't have one any more. They are too lightweight for my liking. Heavier slides are good for creating a decent vibrato too, they seem to "wobble" better on your finger. Real glass bottlenecks are cool being heavy but are hard to make. I've tried copper tubing making slides from hot water pipes but copper is too soft too and gives a dull sound compared to brass. I reckon a decent chromed tube would be good too.

I've been looking for scrap brass or chrome tubing to make some slides to go with my guitars. I called at a scrap metal merchant today and bought an old chromed towel rail. The type that is plumbed into your heating system. It's brass underneath. I reckon I can cut it up into small lengths, file the ends smooth and make about 40 slides out of it. I'm going to make one soon as a prototype so I'll report back on how good it is. I like the idea of recycling too. Most parts of the guitars are from recycled materials and it has a good vibe, good mojo, to make useful things out of scrap.

Update 19 Oct 2007 - I made a couple and they are great, nice smooth action and clean sound

Saturday, August 25, 2007

next cigar box guitar projects

So I've just about finished my latest guitar and feel like a new challenge. I have an idea to make a sort of hard case to hold a CBG. I also want to build a battery powered amp into it too. It will make a complete "buskers" kit. It could take a while as I haven't designed it yet and will need to play around with ideas first.

I need to sell some of my "babies" too now. Getting short of space and a bit of working cash would help fund some more projects. I haven't really applied myself to selling them so far. A few friends have seen them and wanted one but that area has dried up. I need to do some marketing. Anyone out there got any bright ideas?

Wednesday, August 08, 2007

Making a Cigar Box Guitar - Part 4 - the bridge

There are different materials/items used for the bridge but it needs to be a hard material. Some people use a threaded eye hook. I tried it but wasn't happy. I make my own simple bridge using some hard wood like oak or mahogany - a small piece left from the neck will do. I make it about 5 cms long and shape the cross section into an upside down T shape. The saddle part where the strings cross is only about 3 or 4 mm wide. I make it using a small router bit mounted in a drill stand. I cut very shallow grooves (1 mm) about 1 cm apart for the strings to sit in.

I string it up temporary but not full tension and place the bridge in it's approx position. Pass the string through the bottom of the holes you drilled at the base of the neck. You need to find the exact spot for correct intonation. I use a tuner and play one string open and tune it to an exact note (e.g. A) The twelve fret should be exactly one octave higher. I use a screwdriver shaft as a slide for this process as the narrowness makes it more accurate. Place it over the 12th fret and move the bridge either further up or down the box until the octave is bang over the twelth. You can mark it's position if you intend glueing the bridge to the box. I don't usually bother as it gives me the option of fine tuning the intonation whenever I want.

The design of my necks means that there isn't quite enough backwards offset on the neck (like a Fender) to provide enough tension of the strings over the nut. Like Fender I get round this by fitting "string trees" which pull the strings down onto the nut. I sometimes use small screw eyes and thread the string through the eye. Sometimes I make a small metal bar with a hole at each end and two small screws through them into the headstock. The bar presses down on all three strings simultaneously. Once you have these fixed you can string it up and tune it.

These small refinements are something you can experiment with. Once you have the basic box, you'll find little ways of improving them. All part of the creative fun.

More refinement tips to come ......

Saturday, July 14, 2007

A new cigar box guitar in the pipeline

I'm coming out of the creative darkness, the job still sucks but I need to feed my soul. Haven't even played my CBG's for a while. I picked one up last night to play and the bug struck me again. I'm "cheering myself up" by making a new one.

It's going to be pretty cool. The box is a nice yellow Cuesto Rey cigar box. The neck is light oak and I've stained the fretboard very dark. The headstock will be painted yellow on the face to match the box. The fret markers and dots will probably be done by cutting shallow grooves and drilling shallow holes to expose the light colour underneath. It will have the usual 3 string set-up and a piezo pick-up.

I'm taking my time and savouring the project. The body and electrics are made, the neck half made. I'll post a photo when I have something to show.

update Aug 25th :- Just finished it and it's one of my best so far. Just a couple of minor tweaks and then I'll photograph it and put it on here.

Friday, April 20, 2007

When work gets in the way of cigar box guitars

My apologies to any regular visitors - I just haven't had time or energy to make any CBG's lately. My company got bought out by another bigger one and life has been hell ever since. I've had six months of stress and anxiety and no energy left to make any new CBG's and so the content of this blog has been a bit thin on the ground. I'm still here though, playing, and thinking about them. Hell, it's what keeps me sane. Anyway there's plenty in here for newcomers and re-visitors to whet your appetite for cigar box guitars.

So the point is this. What are we here for? Working for some big corporate fat cats or exploring our creative natures. Hmmm let me think. Well, I know what I like best but it doesn't pay the bills. Most of us have to put up with crappy jobs/bosses in order to feed and clothe ourselves but what we really want is FUN. So that's why we take up such weird activities isn't it? Keep on indulging your passions that's what I say. As long as you have something to be passionate about, you can hold it together in this world.

If you haven't made one yet, go ahead. You'll get a real buzz out of creating something of your own and a helluver lot of fun playing it.

Thursday, March 22, 2007

making a cigar box guitar part 3 - the box

So it's time for the box. It needs to be a wooden one not cardboard. I mainly use the paper covered ply boxes with hinged lids. I cut about a 1 inch (25mm) soundhole in the lid using a Forstner bit. The neck will fit just under the lid when closed so you need to cut notches in the ends for it to drop into. I open the lid and mark the centres of the two ends. Measure the section of the neck and mark this at these centres, allow a bit more depth for the thickness of the lid which usually sits inside the sides.

Carefully cut these pieces out using a coping saw or sharp craft knife. Aim for a close tight fit. The neck should fit into it now so try closing the lid - you might need to make it a bit deeper yet - the neck should protrude out the back a couple of inches (about 2 cm). There will be a gap under the neck between it and the bottom of the box. I make two pieces of narrow wood to fit tightly in this gap to support the neck and glue one at each end of the box. When set I drill through the back of the box and through these blocks. Next I put a wood screw with cup washer through each hole and and screw into the neck. Obviously choose screw lengths that won't come right through the neck. This secures the neck to the box.

If adding piezo pick-up I next drill a hole for the jack socket, glue the piezo disc to the underside of the lid where the bridge will be and wire it out. When happy with it close the lid and secure it with a few panel pins (usually there's one already in it in the middle - add another at each end)

coming next - the bridge, string trees and stringing it up. Any questions feel free to mail me.

Sunday, March 11, 2007

cigar box guitars for sale

Finally got around to putting some photos and details of my guitars that are available for sale onto my web site. You can check them out at

www.smojomusic.co.uk

There are presently three guitars and a portable amplifier. I have graded the guitars as either "standard" or "custom". The construction is the same but the custom guitars have a piezo pick-up, and a strap added. I am presently only intending shipping to the UK mainly due to the complications of accepting payment in other currencies but am open to the possibility.